Cartier the story behind the style by Rachael Taylor

Jewelry journalist and expert Rachael Taylor has written two books in the series “The Story Behind the Style”, dedicated to Cartier and Tiffany & Co, released in August 2022. The books were presented and autographed by the author during Gemgenève show in Geneva last November 2022.

Rachael Taylor

I was the lucky one to have my Cartier’s copy signed by Rachael during a lovely breakfast interview with her.

She explained: “These books are an introduction to the brands. The publisher wanted them to be accessible to those just discovering the houses as well as established jewelry lovers, in tone and content as well as their physical size. The Tiffany & Co and Cartier books came out at the same time, and should they be popular with readers there could well be more books in the series dedicated to other jewelry houses.”

I highly appreciated the Cartier book because of its clearness and enjoyable reading. It is almost a pocketbook, a kind of compendium of Cartier history and style. It is beautifully illustrated with both old and recent photos, some of which very unusual.

Cartier founder, Louis-François Cartier

It’s very clear in its exposition and explanations and I can define it as a visual history of one of the most iconic jewelry brands in the world. I asked Rachael if the books were based on material found in the archives. She replied: “As both books are unofficial and not endorsed by the brands, all of the research is my own. As I have been writing about jewelry for many years, I already knew many of the most famous tales and lore surrounding the Maisons, but I also discovered some new angles and stories that made me see the brands in a new light.”

The book retraces the beginnings of the House of Cartier from their humble origins to the enormous success of the three brothers Louis, Pierre and Jacques who opened a boutique at 13 Rue de la Paix in 1899 that it is still the ancestral home of the Maison. It was the cradle of the Cartier legend, where Louis Cartier, and later Jeanne Toussaint, invented the House’s style and identity. A great exploit for Cartier was their connection with the British Royal family who appointed them as their official jewellers. Not surprisingly, other royal courts commissioned to Cartier their jewels such as Spain, Siam, Belgium, Russia and India.

King Edward VII of Britain defined Cartier as: “Jeweller of kings and king of jewellers”. Rachael has the ability to make the reader understand clearly the ésprit of Cartier and its revolutionary style: for instance, they invented the first men’s watch and were the first to use platinum in their creations. In a non-complicated fashion, the author takes us back to the roaring Twenties and to 1925 where Cartier exhibited 150 Art Déco jewels on the occasion of the Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris.

At the dawn of the 20^th century Cartier created a men’s wristwatch for the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont; the most iconic watches are the Tank that took inspiration from the large tanks that rolled through the battlefields during the First World War; the Crash Watch inspired by Salvador Dalì, the sleek dress watch Panthère, Pasha inspired by a 1933 commission from Pasha of Marrakesh and the Ballon Bleu with its signature domed crystal glass. Cartier built its reputation as the jeweller of kings, but they soon became also the jeweller of stars. The list is so long that it’s impossible to mention all the celebrities that have succumbed to Cartier’s charme.

Elizabeth Taylor wearing the Taylor-Burton diamond necklace

The book is rich in details and a real mine of information for people who want to know more about the House of Cartier. The author quotes most part of Cartier’s icons such a Love Bracelet, Juste un Clou, Tutti Frutti, Trinity.

Tutti Frutti bracelet sold at Sotheby’s in 2017 for HK 13.9 milion

Juste un clou

She completes this journey into the world of Cartier showing the reader the most important Cartier boutiques in the world. She doesn’t limit her writing to just the luxury aspect. She also informs us about Cartier’s commitment in Art with the Fondation Cartier in Paris and the initiatives in favor of women as well as the charities with the creation of Cartier Philantropy foundation based in Geneva.

Rachael told me that the most difficult part in writing these books was keeping all the information comprehensible, accessible and compact without leaving out too many details. Also, it was important to make the books fun and enjoyable to read. While today Cartier is part of the Richemont Group, the Maison continues its legacy and in 2021 released 150 new high-jewelry designs and launched a campaign named The Culture of Design to showcase the appeal of its most-loved designs that are coveted and desired by all the jewelry lovers.

Before winding up my interview I asked Rachael what comes next: “I am completely tied up until March, as I am acting editor at Rapaport Magazine while the editor-in-chief Sonia Esther Soltani is on maternity leave. Once Sonia returns, I will take a moment to consider what I would like to do next. As well as continuing my journalistic work, I would certainly consider writing more books and also perhaps returning to organizing events that bring jewelry lovers together and present jewelry in new and fun ways that will land well with a new generation.”