Once again this year, Rolex has managed to amaze great watch collectors with its new masterpieces, which were unveiled at the prestigious 2025 edition of Watches & Wonders in Geneva. Once again, it has demonstrated its mastery of innovation and craftsmanship by introducing its first-ever ceramic dial, unveiled on the 18 ct white gold Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II. This pioneering green Cerachrom dial harmonises seamlessly with the green and black bezel insert, creating a striking aesthetic that embodies sophistication and durability.
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This latest version of the GMT-Master II stands out for its distinctive left-side winding crown and date aperture at 9 o’clock. The meticulous process of crafting the Cerachrom dial mirrors used for natural stone dials with a ceramic disc carefully fitted onto a brass plate. This method ensures a perfect tonal match with the lower half of the two-colour bezel insert, maintaining a consistent and vivid shade of green under any lighting conditions. Rolex’s commitment to precision and aesthetic excellence is evident in the flawless integration of these elements, reinforcing the watch’s unique character.
Complementing the striking dial is the robust and refined Oyster bracelet, fitted with an Oysterlock safety clasp that guarantees security and ease of use. Powering this exquisite timepiece is calibre 3285, an advanced movement that epitomises the pinnacle of Rolex’s watchmaking expertise. This self-winding mechanical movement is equipped with a 24-hour format display, a date function, and the ability to track an additional time zone, making it an indispensable tool for global travellers. As with all Rolex timepieces, the GMT-Master II meets the stringent Superlative Chronometer certification, ensuring exceptional performance on the wrist.
The GMT-Master has long been synonymous with exploration and adventure. Originally designed to aid professionals navigating across multiple time zones, it has become an iconic hallmark of the collection. Its distinctive bidirectional rotatable bezel, featuring a 24-hour graduated insert, has become an iconic hallmark of the collection. The GMT-Master II, introduced in 1982, enhanced the model’s functionality with an independently adjustable hour hand, allowing seamless adjustments without affecting the other hands. Today’s latest iteration remains faithful to this tradition while pushing the boundaries of innovation with its cutting-edge ceramic dial and bezel insert.
Rolex’s expertise in high-technology ceramics has played a crucial role in advancing its watches’ durability and aesthetic appeal. The brand pioneered unique ceramics for its monobloc bezels and inserts, which are known for their scratch resistance and intense colour retention. These high-performance materials are also impervious to environmental effects, ensuring the timepiece maintains its lustre and functionality over time. The new green and black Cerachrom bezel insert of the GMT-Master II is adorned with platinum-coated numerals and graduations, applied through Physical Vapour Deposition (PVD), enhancing legibility and refinement. The hallmark of Rolex’s legendary waterproof capabilities, the Oyster case of the GMT-Master II, remains a paragon of robustness. Crafted from a solid block of 18ct white gold, the 40 mm case guarantees water resistance up to 100 metres (330 feet). Its hermetically sealed case back, secured with a proprietary tool used exclusively by Rolex watchmakers, offers unparalleled protection for the intricate movement. The Triplock winding crown, equipped with a triple waterproofness system, further fortifies the timepiece against the elements, ensuring reliability in any environment. Additionally, the virtually scratchproof sapphire crystal, complete with a Cyclops lens, ensures effortless readability of the date function.
At the heart of this watch lies calibre 3285, a movement that represents a synthesis of Rolex’s cutting-edge innovations. Featuring the patented Chronergy escapement, it offers enhanced energy efficiency and remarkable dependability. Crafted from nickel-phosphorus, this escapement resists strong magnetic fields, safeguarding the movement’s precision. Further elevating its performance is the blue Parachrom hairspring, a paramagnetic alloy that ensures stability against temperature variations and exceptional shock resistance. The oscillator, supported by high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, fortifies the movement’s durability, making it a genuinely robust timekeeping instrument. With an impressive power reserve of approximately 70 hours, the GMT-Master II is built to keep pace with the demands of modern travellers. Enhancing its versatility and comfort, the GMT-Master II is presented on an Oyster bracelet, a design renowned for its robustness and ergonomic wearability. The bracelet features an Oysterlock folding safety clasp, preventing accidental opening, alongside the Easylink extension system, which allows for a quick and effortless adjustment of approximately 5 mm. To ensure long-lasting flexibility, Rolex has integrated patented ceramic inserts inside the links, an innovation that enhances the bracelet’s durability and comfort on the wrist.
The excellence of the GMT-Master II is further underscored by its Superlative Chronometer certification, a rigorous standard redefined by Rolex in 2015. Every watch undergoes an extensive series of in-house tests following official accreditation by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). These assessments guarantee outstanding precision, power reserve, waterproofness, and self-winding efficiency, ensuring the highest level of performance. Rolex’s strict tolerance of −2/+2 seconds per day exceeds conventional chronometer certification standards. As a mark of this exceptional craftsmanship and reliability, every GMT-Master II is accompanied by the green Superlative Chronometer seal, signifying its superior quality.
Rolex’s innovation and prestige affirm its status as a definitive tool watch for modern explorers and horology collectors.
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Article edited by Massimo Basile
Editor & Founder