One of the most lively areas of Milan is unquestionably the refined Cenisio district, with its wealth of interesting options. Last autumn saw the opening in a historic early 20th century palazzo of TOW-The Odd Wine, a new restaurant project by Andrea Griffini, who has worked in the sector for more than twenty years, and Andrea Zarra, an engineer who has returned to Italy and is passionate about Italian flavours. TOW is a wine bar that also serves food where the byword is “particular” as regards its wine – which gives the venue its name – food and design. Everything is a reflection of a philosophy that has inspired a place where the furnishings and materials emphasise detail and contrast and keep them balanced in their simplicity.
Andrea Griffini discusses everything about his restaurant with us enthusiastically. He is keen to tell us about the details one by one, and to show us all the work that has been done behind the scenes with such precision. “I’m obsessed with quality. Perhaps it’s because I wasn’t born with a lot of money; I want my own money to have a value when I spend it. I think I’m a normal person who likes to be honest with myself and my customers, who more than anything must think they’ve eaten well when they come here, because the formula of delicious and well-balanced is the cornerstone of this place.”
Andrea does not love appearances without substance; to be perfectly honest, in fact, he states in no uncertain terms that he is openly against them: “Our dishes are delicious and lovely to look at. The look is an essential added caress, but we never do it ostentatiously as if it were the most important element, because it isn’t. I believe everything must mirror the particular moment in history and combine tradition and innovation without compromising where we are: there are lots of options in Milan, and either you drive a Formula 1 car or you don’t drive at all.”
The restaurant’s customers are offered a modern cuisine, high-quality raw materials and wines that tell a story of territory, passion and desire. Andrea Griffini has put together a wine list that follows neither fashion nor labels, but rewards commitment and respect for the land by historic producers and young winemakers who are voices for constant innovation. The result is a meticulous selection of wines that surprise and excite us, and break away from preconceptions and conformity. In addition to Italy, there are also the aromas of Burgundy and sought-after wines from Australia and New Zealand like Greywacke’s Pinot Noir and Riesling.
“I make my choices based on my own taste and not labels that need to be here. The idea to open TOW came to me and Andrea, my partner and brother-in-law, two summers ago when we were on holiday in Liguria looking for a place where we could eat well, which was a more difficult endeavour than we thought it would be. He has a more analytical brain and works with numbers, while I have the more creative mind, but we share a common credo, which is why we did this project: the search for quality.
I liked the idea of a menu that combined Italian gastronomy and international influences, even though they are part of everyday life in a cosmopolitan city like Milan,” he explains. The gastronomic selection on offer during the day includes octopus and potatoes with beets and sriracha mayo, vitello tonnato with grain mustard, caramelised onion and yuzu gel, and lievitate, a home-made gourmet baked delicacy stuffed with refined flavours from Slow Food Presidia, which are also part of the evening menu. The evening menu has been designed to encourage sharing and a friendly atmosphere, and is made up of small dishes – otherwise known as tapas – which in actual fact are anything but small. The delicious, characterful cacio e pepe frittata with lime is not to be missed.
– Andrea Griffini –
Just as the two partners wanted, the restaurant’s atmosphere mirrors the food and wine formula. The interior design was entrusted to Studio Latino, who focused on the spaces to make the most of their potential and designed a tailor-made concept that would be welcoming and warm, with exposed brickwork on the walls, and at the same time modern, using industrial materials with clean geometric lines.
Two particular elements have the greatest visual impact: the steel bottle rack against the open brickwork and the metal plate and travertine staircase that leads to the upper floor. The ground floor is decorated with glass, bronze and steel tables and pink velvet benches, while travertine, ivory eco-leather panelling and black detailing are the feature of the mezzanine. The concrete floor reflects the industrial style of the steel.
“Our customers are often local, and usually thirty or older. They often have an intellectual approach and are ready to engage in conversation. It’s precisely the type of public that mirrors our own identity and whom I wanted to attract,” Andrea Griffini concludes with a touch of pride.
Discover more @ theoddwine.com
Photo by Federico Bontempi
Article edited by Lucrezia Doria