When it comes to the most exciting recent fashion shows, one of the undisputed protagonists is certainly Christian Dior, who saw us through half a century ago. In fact, not everyone knows that Dior was one of the first to propose fashion shows as moments of visual enjoyment for several people. At his first fashion show in Paris in 1947, he impressed everyone with his flared, flowing skirts with tailored lines – a revolutionary aesthetic called ‘The New Look’.
It was the beginning of a new phase, an era, a period that would open a season of femininity and opulence in stark contrast to the austerity of war. Then in 1943, the first fashion week was inaugurated in New York and finally, fifteen years later, in 1958, it was Milan’s time. This brief historical recapitulation because it is important to understand the origins of this fashion house, which today, in 2022, sees Maria Grazia Chiuri mark a collection that questions the continuous oscillation of fashion between being a manifestation and instrument of power and a collector of creativity.
It was precisely by going back in time that Chiuri decided to go, thinking of Caterina de’ Medici, her embroideries, her political plots and her way of being an Italian in Paris. With these words, he explained the central concept behind the fashion show: ‘Italian in Paris was also Caterina de’ Medici, and to her, we owe so many things that have become established in French culture and way of life. Thus taking inspiration from this world of the past but still able to amaze us today.
While Catherine was in some ways a sublime queen, she was manipulative and strategic in many other ways. It’s amazing how painting and needlepoint embroidery give emotional substance to clothes; Maria Grazia Chiuri has decided to celebrate the gestures of craftsmanship as an emblem of unity, represented by the tree of life. A symbol that recurs in all the creations, adorned with embroidery, patchwork effect chevrons and lively smocking stitch details. Botanical-inspired motifs appear on the back of a coat, on the front of a long black crepe dress or a cotton skirt entirely adorned with beading.
Designed in baroque style by artist Eva Jospin, the set design of the fashion show is inspired by the beauty and darkness of caves. An enchanted landscape evokes an imaginary nature, full of mystery and intimacy.
Article edit by Benedetto Giuliano