GemGenève, one of the world’s most anticipated international jewelry exhibitions, is returning for its ninth edition at Palexpo in Geneva, Switzerland, from May 8 to May 11, 2025. With a remarkable gathering of around 250 exhibitors, the event promises a dazzling array of precious stones, pearls, and jewelry pieces, spanning from antique treasures to the most avant-garde contemporary designs. Ronny Totah, co-founder of Gemgenève, declared: “GemGenève has risen to the challenge of promoting both jewelry arts and Geneva itself at the highest international level whilst preserving a friendly and relaxed atmosphere. I believe our event is one the market both wants and needs”.
Co-founders Ronny Totah and Thomas Faerber
This year’s edition highlights intergenerational dialogue and the importance of skill transfer in the jewelry arts. Mathieu Dekeukelaire, GemGenève’s director, notes the increase in younger attendees who come not only to acquire stunning pieces but also to learn, network, and explore the nuances of the jewelry world.
Mathieu Dekeukelaire, GemGenève’s director
With the powerful theme of “Border(s)”, this event transcends geographic, artistic, generational, and technological boundaries, bringing together creators, collectors, connoisseurs, and emerging talents from around the world. More than just a trade fair, GemGenève has become a cultural phenomenon: a vibrant community and dynamic creative incubator where timeless craftsmanship meets cutting-edge innovation, and passion is brought vividly to life.
The Interview
I had the pleasure of interviewing Mathieu Dekeukelaire and asked him about the innovative aspects of the upcoming edition compared to previous shows. “As with most of our past editions, GemGenève – May 2025 will welcome visitors and exhibitors with a newly reimagined layout, as we will, for the first time, expand into two halls at Palexpo instead of one. This allows for a refreshed visitor experience and the opportunity to rethink the scenography and décor. The thematic exhibition, centred on Art Deco for 2025, will be enriched by a growing number of partners. Existing sections, such as the Designers’ Village and the Masterpiece area, as well as our collaboration with the Armenian Jewellers Association, will be renewed and further developed. The contemporary scene will also expand with new partnerships, including projects linked to the Jewellery & Gemstone Association of Africa (JGAA) and, in the digital realm, with a showcase of the 2024 Digital Jewelry Week winners, for which we are now the main partner.”
Jewellery & Gemstone Association of Africa
How does the show contribute to education and public awareness in the field of gemstones and jewelry?
“This has been part of the show’s DNA since its launch in 2018. Even in the first edition, we organised a workshop with HEAD – Geneva, whose pieces were exhibited at the show, alongside a small program of talks. Since then, we have significantly expanded what we now call the cultural and educational programming at the fair. All these initiatives are funded by GemGenève and serve as accessible entry points for the general public. This includes the growing cycle of talks and panel discussions (available for free on our digital platform: digital.gemgeneve.com), exhibitions created in partnership with museums and heritage collections from major houses, printed catalogues, presentations of traditional crafts, and hands-on workshops with training institutions in gemology, jewelry design, and craftsmanship. Our inclusive approach is also reflected in our ticketing policy: free entry for students and a CHF 50 fee for the general public, which grants access to all four days of the show (and allows visitors to return as many times as they like). Most importantly, this is a world that brings together enthusiasts and experts. It’s a rare opportunity to meet and exchange ideas with dealers, historians, speakers, and authors all under one roof.”
How does the show strike a balance between commercial interests and cultural/artistic promotion?
“The primary goal of the show has always been to serve the interests of our exhibitors. The balance between commercial and cultural/artistic aspects comes naturally, as everyone on the team believes these areas are deeply interconnected. Supporting today’s students means nurturing tomorrow’s designers, jewelers, and dealers. It also creates opportunities for current dealers to collaborate with emerging talents, and vice versa. For dealers, the cultural dimension of the show enhances both their expertise and their merchandise, particularly when their pieces are featured alongside museum-quality works in curated exhibitions.
At the same time, inviting curators and historians offers them access to private collections and gems rarely seen by the public, while allowing for meaningful dialogue with an informed audience. Ultimately, this dynamic opens doors for new entrants and young enthusiasts, sparking the interest of potential future buyers.”
How does the cultural and artistic offering set GemGenève apart from other international jewelry fairs?
“As Ronny Totah, one of the co-founders, once said: GemGenève is not just a commercial fair, it’s an event. An event that celebrates and unites all aspects of the jewelry world, from major houses and dealers to artisans, designers, schools, experts, and historians. The fact that two families of established dealers founded GemGenève reinforces the dual pillars that set us apart: passion and a commitment to passing on knowledge. This allows us to prioritise meaningful, non-commercial projects when appropriate, setting us apart from other professionally-run fairs focused solely on revenue.”
Digital Jewelry Week
Co-organizer Nadège Totah emphasizes, “Our partnership with Digital Jewelry Week is also full of symbolism. Today, digital technology is an incredible platform for emerging talents, enabling them to cross borders and establish themselves more quickly and effectively outside their home countries.”
Co-organizers Ida Faerber and Nadège Totah
Founded by Dario Rjeili, Digital Jewelry Week (DJW) is an innovative digital event supported by GemGenève. At this year’s edition, the winning creations from the previous edition will be featured in an exclusive in-person exhibition.
New Participants
Among this edition’s participants, fifteen new exhibitors will be making their debut at GemGenève. Among the newcomers, two jewelry artists are set to captivate the public with their creations.
Alessa Jewelry Dubai, United Arab Emirates Since its founding in 2009, Alessa Jewelry has embodied the distinctive vision of Yuvraj Pahuja, a passionate designer whose roots in the jewellery world run deep. Drawing on a rich heritage, Yuvraj has cultivated a brand that seamlessly blends tradition with a bold, contemporary spirit. Each collection reflects a celebration of cultural diversity, brought to life through exquisite craftsmanship and a meticulous attention to detail. With a signature style that combines elegance and innovation, Alessa Jewelry resonates with an international audience seeking meaningful, beautifully made pieces. As the brand continues to evolve, it remains guided by Yuvraj’s creative drive and clear artistic direction, a shining example of how heritage and imagination can come together to shape the future of fine jewellery.
Alessa jewelry, Orbit earrings
Sarkissian, making their debut at GemGenève, is a family-run Armenian brand founded by Zabela Sarkissian in 1994. Renowned for exquisite craftsmanship and the use of rare gemstones—such as Paraíba tourmalines, alexandrites, and black opals, their one-of-a-kind creations are entirely handmade using traditional techniques. Based in Yerevan with a 2,000 sqm workshop, Sarkissian is committed to excellence, crafting limited editions that begin with the stone as the focal point of each design.
Sarkissian, three rings with rose, orange and green diamonds
Other first-time exhibitors include U.S.-based Bridges Tsavorite from Arizona, founded by Campbell Bridges, the geologist who discovered tsavorite garnet in Zimbabwe in 1961. Also joining the show for the first time are Australian traders Cody Opal Australia, and Brazilian dealer Moizes Ferreira from Lima, owner of multiple Paraíba tourmaline mines across Brazil, Mozambique, and Nigeria. These newcomers bring fresh energy and unique expertise, enriching the fair’s global tapestry.
Spotlight on natural pearls
Conch pearls, one of the rarest gems in the world, take center stage through Hong Kong-based Ocean Flame LTD. Bertrand Ternat and his family business have specialized in these non-nacreous pearls for over 25 years. Their work not only promotes this extraordinary gem but also supports fishing communities in the Caribbean. With their oval shape, delicate pink hue, and flame-like surface, conch pearls remain relatively unknown to many, yet are increasingly sought after in the high jewelry market, particularly in Asia and the Middle East.
Ocean Flame Ltd, Conch Pearl
Enzo Liverino: A love affair with coral since 1894
At the heart of the vibrant jewelry traditions showcased at GemGenève 2025 lies the enduring legacy of coral, an organic gemstone as timeless as it is mysterious. Few embody a deeper passion for this gem than Enzo Liverino, a fourth-generation master and one of the most respected figures in the field. The Liverino family’s connection to coral dates back to 1894, a legacy passed down from father to son across generations. Today, Enzo continues this tradition as a passionate advocate and educator. He currently chairs the Coral Commission of the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO), where he promotes greater awareness and appreciation for this extraordinary material within the global jewelry community. Liverino deals in all five varieties of coral traditionally used in jewellery: corallium rubrum, japonicum, elatius, secundum, and konjoi. These originate from both the Mediterranean and Japan, offering a rich spectrum of colors, from delicate pinks to deep oranges. Among them, Mediterranean coral, often called “red gold”, is particularly rare and difficult to harvest, forming in deep waters and prized for bot hits durability and rich hue. Yet, when asked about his favorite, Liverino doesn’t hesitate: “Angel skin coral, a color variation that shouldn’t exist at all.” Despite its classification as a “soft” gemstone due to its low hardness index, Liverino notes that coral is far more resilient than its reputation suggests. However, he cautions that it is vulnerable to moisture and requires careful handling over time. His most valuable advice? “Always buy coral from a reputable dealer.” Enzo Liverino is not only a craftsman but a storyteller. His forthcoming book, The Wonder of Sciacca Coral, explores the history and mystique of a rare red coral found off Sicily’s coast. Through personal anecdotes and detailed commentary on exceptional pieces gathered over his 54-year career, Liverino invites readers into the fascinating world of this marine treasure.
Enzo Liverino
Emerging talents
In the Designers’ Village, curated by co-organizer Nadège Totah, fresh voices in jewelry design, such as A.win Siu (China) and Shavarsh Hakobian (Armenia), will present collections inspired by personal stories and cultural fusion.
A.win Siu, purple candy brooch
Shavarsh Hakobian, Butterfly ring, gold, rose topaz, diamonds, pearl, organza threads
Ukrainian collective Strong & Precious returns with bold works created under the shadow of war, proving that creativity endures even in the face of adversity. Founded in 2022 by jewelry connoisseur Olga Oleksenko, the foundation was born in response to the conflict, with a mission to showcase Ukraine’s deep-rooted jewelry heritage and provide a global platform for its contemporary designers.
Inesa Kovalova, Strong & Precious, Brooch Links
The Armenian Jeweller Association (AJA) returns this year with a showcase of extraordinary Armenian talents, winners of the AJA Design Competition, including Karen Hovhannisyan, Mike Saatji, Vasken Melikian, and Armen Shahinyan.
Mike Saatji, bangle, AJA
Art Deco Takes Center Stage
In celebration of the centenary of the 1925 International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts, GemGenève presents a curated Art Deco exhibition featuring nearly 100 museum-worthy pieces, from jewelry and couture to sculpture and design. These works are loaned by prestigious institutions and private collections, including Chaumet, Cartier, the International Museum of Horology, Ernst Färber, the Faerber Collection, G. Torroni SA, Horovitz & Totah, Humphrey Butler Ltd, Morelle Davidson, N. Torroni, Paul Fisher Inc., Golay Fils & Stahl, the Geneva Museum of Art and History, and others.
I asked Mathieu Dekeukelaire, curator of the exhibition, what role art plays in his professional journey. “Personally, I strongly identify with the founders’ vision. I’ve always had a deep appreciation for beauty, fine objects, and art in general. After an internship at a contemporary art gallery in Paris, I started my Swiss journey with artgenève and artmonte-carlo, both contemporary art fairs, before joining GemGenève at its inception. Positioning the show as both a commercial and cultural event is a natural extension of the values shared by the founding families and myself. Strategically, it also positions the fair as a gathering place for the entire jewelry community, where each participant is an active contributor, not just a visitor or observer. Let’s not forget: a fair is, above all, a space for meetings, exchanges, opportunities, and new ideas.”
Reflecting on the enduring appeal of Art Deco, Ida Faerber, GemGenève co-organizer, shared: “Art Deco was an age of freedom, prosperity, and innovation, born from a profound need for revival in the wake of the First World War. Wartime austerity gave way to joie de vivre; indulging oneself became a necessity. The era became known as the Roaring Twenties, marked by the Charleston and the emancipation of women, who abandoned their corsets and took up smoking. Four years ago, we witnessed something similar in modern day society after COVID: a collective desire to live again following successive lockdowns. When you look at Art Deco jewelry, fashion, and haute couture, the period is clearly defined by freedom shorter hemlines, stacks of bracelets and pearls, and hairstyles adorned with feathered headbands. Convention was seen as boring; there was a thirst for fantasy.” Ida continues, “Along with the 1970s, Art Deco is one of buyers’ favorite periods in twentieth-century jewelry and jewelsmithing. Many pieces have not aged at all-they remain highly contemporary in their design and timeless in the materials used. Without question, Art Deco marks the heyday of the major Place Vendôme jewelers and other renowned houses, which is likely why so many collectors choose to begin their journey with an Art Deco piece.”
Important Art Deco diamond bracelet, Ghiso, c.1930 © Faerber Collection
Bespoke jewelry: a Revival of meaning
Bespoke jewellery-crafted either as commissioned pieces or specifically designed to feature extraordinary gemstones- is experiencing a remarkable revival. According to Nadège Totah, co-organizer of GemGenève, there is a growing desire among collectors and jewelry enthusiasts for unique, personally meaningful creations. Lucas Hage, an innovative designer from Geneva, perfectly embodies the spirit of personalized jewelry. A graduate of HEAD (Geneva’s University of Art and Design), Hage infuses his creations with narrative depth, shaping metal and gemstones into highly symbolic artefacts. His approach is deeply intimate, emphasizing personal stories and emotional connections. Notably unconventional, Hage incorporates damaged gemstones into his designs, championing sustainability and redefining beauty standards within jewelry design. “Jewelry should be intimate. There’s something sacred in creating an artefact that holds meaning.”, declared Lucas Hage.
Ring by Lucas Hage
Elsa Jin, a highly sought-after jewelry artist from New York, creates exceptional, individualized pieces for a discerning clientele, including celebrities like Isabeli Fontana and Isabelle Huppert. Jin’s creations are characterized by their profound symbolism, informed by the personalities and life stories of her clients. Her meticulous gem selection and deeply personal creative process make each piece a unique reflection of its wearer’s identity.
Diamond and emeral brooch, Elsa Jin
Men’s Jewellery: reclaiming style, redefining identity
GemGenève 2025 marks a significant evolution: the spotlight turns to men’s jewelry. Once symbols of power and tradition, men’s jewels are now intimate, expressive, and increasingly daring. “Men have changed the way they relate to jewelry,” said Ronny Totah, Co-founder, GemGenève.
Mathieu Dekeukelaire, wearing two brooches by A.win Siu
Arts and Crafts space encounters
For its ninth edition, GemGenève has invited twelve master craftspeople to set up temporary workshops in the Métiers d’Art space. Events include demonstrations and talks featuring: gemologist Anne Quedillac, Custom & Colors, Ateliers Lison de Caunes (straw marquetry), Thibault Leclerc (lapidary), Aymeric Pittet (jewel setting), Félicien Riondel(jewelsmithing), Justin K. Prim & Victoria Raynaud (lapidary), Matteo Stauffacher (enameling), Richard Lundin(engraving), Rose Saneuil (fine marquetry), Sabine Gyger (pearl threading and peeling), and Sara Bran (gold lace).
Sara Bran, Gold Lace-Maker
Rose Saneuil, The blue bird
A commitment to education and legacy
Beyond the glamour, GemGenève is deeply committed to mentoring the next generation. Through partnerships with institutions like HEAD Geneva, Galdus School Milan, and the Eric Horovitz Foundation, students and apprentices are offered hands-on experience and mentorship. The GemGenève Awards will once again recognize the most creative emerging talents. GemGenève continues its collaboration with Geneva’s University of Art and Design (HEAD) and the Grand Théâtre de Genève on a project themed “Elixirs,” inspired by the opera Tristan & Isolde. Students will creatively explore jewelry pieces that encapsulate substances like perfumes and potions, further enriching their educational journey. The Eric Horovitz Foundation Award, dedicated to nurturing emerging talents, will again highlight exceptional young artists, offering unparalleled mentorship opportunities within prestigious jewelry workshops. Additionally, the photomicrography contest returns, inviting students from the Royal Belgian Gemmological Society to artistically capture gemstone inclusions through photography.
Glass chrysalis by Clarisse Vittoz, winner of the 2022 Eric Horovitz Foundation Award
The Gem Museum (Singapore) returns with “Junior Rockstars” workshops for children as young as four, offering hands-on gem education, “Mine to Market” experiences, and an interactive escape game.
Jewelry from the future by Donna Jewel
Laura Inghirami invites students from Milan’s Galdus School and Tarì Design School to design futuristic jewelry. Their creations will be exhibited, and visitors will have the opportunity to vote for their favorite piece.
Artisanry & Heritage
IsabelleFa: Renowned for handcrafting gold chains using ancient techniques. CEO Alexandre Mössner advocates for preserving craftsmanship in a digital age.
Isabelle Fa, ChaCha chain necklace
Arnoldi International: A historic family gemstone-cutting house from Idar-Oberstein, Germany, now in its third generation with René and his son Alexander.
Arnoldi International, raw and faceted aquamarines
Ultraco (Geneva): The Ansari brothers represent the fifth generation of luxury gemstone dealers, balancing traditional expertise with evolving digital practices and consumer expectations.
Ultraco SA, emerald cabochons, enamel and pearl
KREIS Jewellery, a German family-run brand, is a distinguished name in the jewelry world, celebrated for its contributions to the art and industry of gem-cutting and jewelry making. This commitment traces back over five centuries, where the secrets of transforming raw stones into mesmerizing pieces of beauty were carefully handed down through generations. Kreis stands as a modern custodian of this legacy, embodying the confluence of generations of gem-cutters who preceded him.
Kreis Jewellery, Tanzanite, red gold & white gold, diamonds
Katerina Perez x Osmium Institute Design Contest
This competition, new for 2025, is open to jewelry companies, professional jewelry designer-makers, manufacturers, and bench jewelers. The winners will be officially announced at the Osmium Institute booth at GemGenève.
Katerina Perez
The judges are:
- Scarlett Claus, Vice Director of the Osmium Institute, Germany
- Richard Reis, State Institute Manager, Osmium Institute, Germany
- Katerina Perez, Jewelry Editor and Key Opinion Leader, France
- Lorenz Bäumer, Renowned jeweler at Place Vendôme, known for his creativity and unconventional designs, France
- Frédéric Mané, Award-winning Parisian jewelry designer and founder of his eponymous studio, France
- Anthony Garcia, Jewelry designer experienced in working with osmium, Brazil
- Tania Chan, Jewelry designer experienced in working with osmium, Hong Kong
GemGenève is much more than a tradeshow, it’s a true platform for education, cultural exchange, heritage preservation, and creative innovation. The fair will feature a rich program of talks, book presentations and other initiatives.
Check-out the full schedule at this link: gemgeneve.com/programme
Practical Information
📍 Venue: Palexpo, Hall 1, Route François-Peyrot 30, 1218 Le Grand-Saconnex, Geneva
📅 Dates: 8–11 May 2025
🕙 Opening Hours: 10 a.m. – 6:30 p.m. (last entry 5 p.m. on Sunday)
🎟️ Admission: CHF 50 (Free for students and under-18s)
🔗 More Info: www.gemgeneve.com | Instagram | Digital Platform
Photo Credits: András Barta – David Fraga
Article edit by Laura Astrologo Porché
Instagram: @journaldesbijoux
