Seal & Scribe’s Love Letters collection, by San Diego-based jeweler Shari Cohen is a celebration of romance and a nostalgic journey through the world of glyptics.
Set in 18k custom-blended alloy of ‘Blush’ rose gold with a Yin Yang diamond halo of .37cttw, in a Georgian-era style, this Love Letters ring depicts two birds, each with one end of a string in their beaks and an infinity knot at the center. The meaning, ‘The Higher They Fly, The Tighter The Bond’ speaks to allowing loved ones to reach for their dreams, and in doing so, your bond becomes stronger
The romanticism of this exquisite capsule collection of ancient seals expertly mounted in rings by Shari is well represented by Eros/Cupidus and in Latin, Amor, god of divine love. Anyone who wears these signet rings will be in harmony with the motto that each one carries. A message that comes from ancient times but still remains relevant today. The glyptics’ roots trace back to the Ptolemaic era, traversing ancient Greece and Rome. Rings served as seals to close correspondence, a tradition that regained popularity during the Renaissance and the Neoclassical period. For instance, Caroline Bonaparte, Queen of Naples, was an avid enthusiast of ancient glyptics, influencing the incorporation of this trend into jewelry. From there, it spread to France during the Napoleonic era and to Great Britain during Georgian and Victorian periods.
The term “intaglio” is derived from the Italian verb “intagliare“, meaning to carve. It’s a sculptural technique where a design is engraved into a material of various types. In contrast to cameos, which feature raised figures, intaglios have designs incised onto the surface of a gem or a glass, making them well-suited for seals. Historically, these engraved designs, when inked, were used to imprint images or monograms onto wax or clay. This unique characteristic made intaglios particularly ideal for creating seals that could authenticate documents or letters. This intersection of artistry and functionality showcases the enduring charm of the Love Letters Collection, capturing the essence of a bygone era in each meticulously crafted piece.
Ancient seals & cameos – Bonham auctions
The Georgian era, which spanned from 1714 to 1830, saw significant innovation and evolution in the field of jewelry. Among the dazzling array of jewels from this period, a distinctive form of ornamentation emerged known as seal jewelry, prominently featuring the intriguing technique of intaglios. These pieces not only showcase the craftsmanship of the era but also provide fascinating insights into the social and personal dynamics of those eras. During the Georgian and Victorian periods, correspondence intensified, leading to an increased need for seals, often mounted on rings. Seal jewelry was commonly worn on a chain around the neck or attached to a watch chain. The seals frequently displayed the owner’s monogram, coat of arms or family crest. Some also depicted mythological scenes, mottos, or even portraits. Seals are symbolic for those who wore them. The depictions of characters with their mottos, historical significance and the precious intricacy of the carving makes this collection truly unique. It’s a captivating blend of romanticism, symbolism and craftsmanship. Additionally, these miniatures prompt us to reflect on and contemplate the romantic stories that accompany each piece. This collection is an ode to love, represented by Eros/Cupidus, who carries a wheelbarrow full of hearts or depicted as a naked and winged child. Other symbols are the flowers, the birds and the hearts, all precious attributes of love. The mottos are written in French, Italian and English, evoking ancient declarations of love.
Cupid compels us to choose love (Choississez in French means: “Make your choice”).
The ring is made in antiqued rose gold with two rose-cut diamonds. The engraving is on intense green glass
But the choice is not simple, and so the lover expects to find the most faithful person (Je cherche la plus fidele in French: “I am looking for the most faithful one”).
Set in 18k yellow gold with a triple arrow shank. Each arrow tip contains three diamonds on each side, set in sterling silver
The aim is to find a soulmate to love forever: “Sempre più ti amo” (in Italian: I love you more and more).
Set in 18k yellow gold with two antique old European diamond side stones
The liaison becomes increasingly intense until one realizes that the loved one is becoming more and more significant: the only love of one’s life.
Tu me fixe in ancient French means: “You are my obsession”.
Set with 1.28 cttw in pavé rubies in a subtle array of hues from pale pink to vibrant and deep berry pink, all set in luscious, glowing 18k yellow gold
Separated but not disunited – Life can sometimes separate even two soulmates, yet this motto reminds us that we can be physically apart but united in a harmonious communion of senses.
Set in butterific 18k yellow gold, with a ruby halo set in 18k white gold, all backed with a lustrous tablet of mother of pearl
Nothing to fear, because the lovers know that the heart of their beloved belongs to them now. Il est à vous in French means “It’s yours” (referring to the heart).
Set in 18k yellow gold with Yin Yang swirl halo set with .35cttw in full cut diamonds
So I to thee means: “I am for you in this way”. The ancient glass seal features a sunflower tilting towards the sun. Upon close inspection, a delightful face can be discerned on the sun. The motto, ‘So I To Thee‘ conveys the message that the loved one is a metaphor for the Sun in relation to the Flower, or vice versa.
18k white gold Grecian fluted column-style setting with a scalloped halo of .41cttw diamonds
A grand love story culminating with two hearts destined to be together forever. This is the romantic wish of this seal with two hearts tied together – an enduring promise over time. The engraved motto is, aptly, “Forever”.
Set in 18k yellow gold with two antique old European diamonds, 46cttw, as accents
– Shari Cohen –
I interviewed Shari Cohen and she shared with me how she started Seal & Scribe:
“I launched Seal & Scribe in 2016, but the collecting of intaglio seals probably started about 2013 or thereabouts. I had been an international consultant for over 30 years when I first started conceiving of Seal & Scribe, it was going to be my ‘retirement business’, but then Covid hit and my consulting was grounded for almost three years, and during that time I grew my jewelry business to the point where it overtook the consulting. Right now I’m so busy with Seal & Scribe that I don’t envision how I could even take on a consulting job if the right one came along, but that’s a good problem to have! I had a mentor who helped me get into the business, gifted me entrée to her bench, and advised me on all things big and small related to the business. Not having any prior connections, family or otherwise in this industry, having a mentor who already had their own successful business was a godsend and I don’t think I would be where I am without that. My growth in the jewelry industry has been very organic, fueled by word of mouth, social media, and industry press.”
What is most challenging about what you do?
“I think the most challenging part of designing jewelry is that you are always hoping that the final product exceeds yours, and your client’s expectations, but you don’t really know until it comes off the bench and you hold it in your hands and think, ‘Yes! This is exactly what I hoped for, or even better!’ This is particularly true of custom commissions because the very nature of Seal & Scribe is to create often times a very personal piece of jewelry and there is a deep well of emotion tied up with what the client is wanting and I always want to exceed their expectations. “
Would you describe your signet rings as talismans or amulets?
“This is such a great question and I had to do a bit of research on the difference between the two. There are actually three types of similar pieces: Charms, Amulets, and Talismans. Charms are worn to attract good luck. Amulets provide protection from danger. A Talisman is used to attract a specific benefit to its owner. Under those definitions, I would say my signet rings are talisman pieces because the mottos on most are words of wisdom, strength, courage, love, etc. and as such they are meant to remind the wearer of these characteristics. If a seal had the image of a four-leaf clover on it, which is a universal symbol of good luck, I still would not consider it a ‘charm’ per se, because the seal is sending a message of luck, it is not intended as the bearer of luck itself, if that makes sense! So definitely talisman, but the overlaps are so thin that it doesn’t really matter to me what someone calls my work as long as it evokes a deep feeling to the wearer!”
This collection is an ode to love. Would you consider yourself as an incurable romantic?
“Love Letters is definitely an Ode to Love, absolutely! But it is an Ode to Love of all types, that is the important thing. I wanted these VSRs – Very Special Rings – to embody a myriad of love in all its many varieties and forms because Love can be seen and felt in so many different ways and all of it is beautiful and valid and should be treasured! As for myself, I would definitely say yes, I am a romantic, but not incurably so! I am a realistic romantic, a pragmatic romantic. I think when one is younger, say in their teens and 20’s, they are perhaps in their incurable romantic phase of life, but as one moves through different life cycles and experiences one hopefully learns as they go! I think ultimately I am a romantic, but with a healthy dash of reality thrown in!”
To conclude the article I asked Shari what are her next steps as a jeweler:
“There are so many things I want to explore with this medium, and I have more ideas than I have time in life to do them, to be honest! But right now I will continue to move forward with custom commissions because that currently makes up about 75% of my clientele. At the same time, it is always important to create without the constraints of client expectation, so we shall continue to have a smaller collection of in-stock pieces available because that also allows me to design unfettered by what a specific client might like, and I can just allow my imagination to run where it wants to go. I always abide by the mantra, ‘If I love it, someone else will love it too’ when I design my inventory pieces. And of course there will be more thematic capsule collections curated around specific themes like Love Letters. I have a second edition of Love Letters to come, which will have a completely different look than the first edition has. And I already have ideas about other capsule collections, which usually center around an idea and a collection name first, then I curate the intaglio seals that will speak to that thematic vibe. “
Exciting new surprises await us and I invite the readers to stay tuned for Shari’s upcoming collections that will surely capture everybody’s attention!
Discover more @ sealandscribe.com
Article edited by Laura Astrologo Porché
Instagram @journaldesbijoux
