The fine dining restaurant in Via Washington in Milan, a space soaked in the heritage of the Borgia family and enhanced with objets d’art, has welcomed the autumn with a celebration of seasonal flavours, offering a selection of dishes created by Chef Giacomo Lovato and sustained by a perfect balance of meat, fish and vegetable recipes.
– Giacomo Lovato –
Borgia Milano’s jewel in the crown is its Psyche menu, which was born out of an idea conceived by its founder, Edoardo Borgia. The chef creates the menu in the form of surprises that he serves plate by plate after listening to what his guests feel like and their preferences. It consists of between six and eight dishes, all offered in harmony with the emotions his diners have communicated to him.
The expression “Tell me what you eat and I’ll tell you who you are” also works the other way, therefore, as guests go on a journey through appetisers, first courses, and meat, fish and vegetarian main courses, made to measure just as a tailor would. A special treat created on the spot that inspires a fun, out-of-the-ordinary experience.
Chef Lovato’s love of vegetables is turned into the dishes on his Natura menu, a seven-course journey made up of six savoury dishes and a dessert, all distinct, refined flavours created depending on the availability of seasonal ingredients. Every mouthful of his appetisers speaks to us of autumn, with a cream of barbecued pumpkin, a pumpkin carpaccio marinated in mustard, sweet-and-sour mustard seeds and pumpkin seeds, pumpkin oil and lemon. The natural sweetness of the pumpkin blends with the smoky notes it takes on when it is cooked, creating a rich base. The mustard lends a liveliness to the flavours and the seeds give the dish a crunch that contrasts with the softness of the cream, while the lemon adds a touch of acidity.
The sea herb risotto with a tarragon emulsion and burnt lemon powder is a homage to the essence of the ocean and its riches. The rice acts as a fabric on to which a harmony of flavours is painted. The tarragon adds a touch of freshness and herbaceous hints that remind us of a walk along the coast, with the contrast of the burnt lemon. The main courses include barbecued cardoncelli mushrooms on leeks and black garlic with parsley and turnip greens. The technique used to cook the mushrooms gives them a complex flavour that reminds us of the warmth of a fire and the woods in autumn.
The tasting menu offers diners a choice of four dishes, including the chef’s signature dishes of tagliolini in a smoked trout broth with onion and trout roe and pigeon cooked three ways with blackberries, juniper and hibiscus. The tagliolini combines flavours from the sea and the land. The broth is at the heart of the dish, while the silky texture of the roe adds the finishing touch. The pigeon is served in a variety of textures: the breast is sautéed in butter and finished on the barbecue, the thigh is confit and the fillet is marinated. The sweetness of the blackberries balances the intense flavour of the meat, the slightly resinous aroma of the juniper adds depth, and the hibiscus’s freshness introduces a floral, slightly acidic aftertaste. The dishes are accompanied by a selection of wines chosen by the sommelier Christian Russomanno. The list includes local and international wines, from champagne to red and white wines and rosés.
Chef Lovato brings a joyous touch and a huge impact. He creates his dishes with great precision after carefully studying the raw materials and always experimenting. His cooking tells the story of his journey, full of unexpected combinations and pleasurable and elegant flavours that offer new stimuli. Along his path as a culinary artist, Giacomo has worked with chefs like Carlo Cracco and Claudio Sadler, who have enabled him to add innovative touches to his approach while staying within the boundaries of tradition and have transmitted the value of each ingredient to him.
The other face of Borgia Milano is AS33, named after the arsenic symbol in the periodic table. It is open for breakfast and lunch, and when evening falls, it offers innovative cocktails created by talented mixologists, accompanied by a selection of Italian tapas. Flavours, classicism and experimentation.
Enjoy even more @ Borgia Milano
Articolo a cura di Lucrezia Doria